Climbing harness without belay loop. Recently I discovered that certain people in the new gym where I climb actually tie into the belay loop. Some benefits: It doesn’t need extra carabiners, uses less rope in its final form, can never be unclipped from your harness like a butterfly, is adjustable without completely undoing it, and is easy to remember. Mar 15, 2023 · Belay loop: The strongest and most important loop on the harness that bears the bulk of your weight when belaying or rappelling. Plus, a broken keeper strap on the leg loops would have led to them sawing against the belay loop in the exact same spot over time. Having two soft points gives aid climbers a place to connect a second daisy, which is used for capturing progression as they ascend the ladder. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Often this means these harnesses will have smaller gear loops, designed for holding quickdraws and a belay device, and not necessarily to accommodate a trad rack (not to mention a double rack!). It is far more practical and efficient than sharing one device between two people, and it puts fewer twists and kinks in your rope than a Munter hitch does. Nov 22, 2021 · Most climbing harnesses use a plain open loop to attach leg loops to the waist belt. Jul 1, 2024 · An alpine climbing harness will have a lot of the same features as a trad climbing harness, including durable fabrics, large gear loops and a haul loop, and a supportive build for hanging belays. Jan 25, 2015 · Blue Ice claim that their Choucas Harness is: “ The lightest harness you can put on without taking off your skis! ” Kev puts it to the test… Overall Rating: ***** Blue Ice Choucas Harness – great for ski mountaineering and ski touring. Big Wall & Aid Climbing Harnesses: Built for maximum comfort during multi-day climbs involving extensive hanging and hauling. The belay loop is a full-strength-part of the harness, which means it is rated for any climbing related weight and force. Aug 17, 2020 · Hi - I am a novice climber and recently purchased a secondhand DMM alpine centre harness. Jan 6, 2021 · DMM Trance Welsh climbing company DMM are more known for their hardware than their harnesses, at least in North America. Usually belaying off harness is for special situations only, like belaying in a snow seat. A central belay loop is vital for securely attaching your rope. The double carabiner brake rappel is the best way to descend without a traditional rappel May 28, 2021 · If you couldn’t find someone to be your belay slave in the past, you would have been out of luck. 7 oz. While bringing up your second, it is almost always best to create a mastpoint on anchor and belay off that. There are various ways that you could install a belay loop, but I do not recommend this at all. If you are the climber, you will need to make sure the rope is fed through the belay loop or the two hard points correctly, depending on the style of harness you’re using. The nylon webbing is strong and flexible, but it will wear down and become weaker if you tie other climbing accessories around it. For this method, the rope is wound around the body making an improvised “harness” and the speed of descent is controlled by the friction of the rope against the body. Here at Climbing, everyone who’s taken this harness into the field has made it their go-to for projecting sport climbs. A harness coupled with a carabiner and belay device provides much more safety and consistency in the process, and is a lot more comfortable. When you're belaying, you tie your GriGri or ATC to a carabiner that goes through the belay loop, which in turn goes through the tie-in points. Jun 20, 2024 · Hunting for a new climbing harness? Here's a breakdown of what to look for in a quality harness plus the best sport, trad & gym harnesses of 2024. This is seen in lightweight mountaineering harnesses such as the BD Alpine Bod. Remove the tether when Oct 16, 2018 · Aid Climbing mostly and redundancy. Mar 18, 2025 · Weight: 15. Since the strength of the system is its weakest link, then why do this? (Didn't a famous climber die recently because his belay loop was worn?) If the Mar 28, 2025 · The girth hitch has innumerable applications, including cinching a runner on a knob or around a tree, attaching a sling to your harness belay loop, and hitching several runners together into a chain to make a longer sling. Most harnesses feature adjustable leg loops. Nov 24, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. First, do you want a cheap and light harness for top-rope climbing only, or do you need a more expensive and complete climbing harness? Top-rope harnesses have neither Belay Loop nor Gears loops, vital for sport and trad climbing. The Trance, although billed as “lightweight,” has burly Dynatec reinforcements in the tie-in points and belay loop to reduce abrasion. Confirm that the carabiner passes through the rope, belay-device cable, and harness belay loop. It can happen to anyone. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some May 21, 2024 · With the Pinch, Edelrid is launching a new belay device with locking support, which can be hooked directly into the rope ring of the climbing harness without a carabiner. Find the best climbing harness for your style—sport, alpine, or big wall. At 170g the Blue Ice Choucas certainly is light. Belay Loop: The part of the harness where carabiners are clipped to in order to belay or rappel. Today we take a closer look at the Allgäu wonder weapon. Tube style and Assisted Braking devices are both acceptable for top rope belay at LCC. THE INFINITY LOOP The Black Diamond airNET harness has an infinity loop. But here’s the problem: you’re on a budget and buying a Oct 21, 2021 · 15 I've just started rock climbing at an indoor climbing gym with a few friends. This changed a few years ago when some enterprising product designer came up with the idea of a variable-length personal anchor system. Made of the brand’s WIREFRAME dyneema cord, it distributes load perfectly and is as durable as you would want it to be. The lanyard attached to the belay loop helps maintain good harness geometry without affecting comfort. Feb 23, 2020 · Learn how to girth hitch a sling to your harness and why we prefer using a girth hitch, fed through your harnesses tie-in points. Jun 26, 2024 · The belay loop is one of the most important parts of a climbing harness (and also the strongest), so if the harness is not performing best for the type of climbing you are doing I recommend you buy another harness (that has a belay loop). Eventually you want gear loops. This harness has adjustable leg loops and a waistband for a custom fit, and the lightweight design makes it easy to wear for long periods of time. Aug 17, 2021 · The Blue Ice Choucas Pro is a tiny, lightweight harness (140-gram/4. Without the right knots, climbers risk unstable connections that could lead to dangerous situations. The auto belay is a beneficial mechanism that many climbing gyms have introduced to let people climb without a belay partner. This could have ended badly, and is reminder for caution, Sep 6, 2023 · The Arc’teryx Konseal is the brand’s most padded harness, with an innovative butterfly-shaped design to provide support and enable mobility in a relatively lightweight package. I never have and never will rely only on the belay loop. There truly are various choices. I noticed on the auto-belay walls, the was a carabiner you clip to your harness (I assume in the belay loop). Question on harnesses that have two belay loops. May 3, 2025 · This might be considered a four-season harness. If you’re new to climbing, your foremost step is to understand all the parts of a climbing harness. Mar 26, 2025 · Climbing knots are essential for ensuring safety, securing gear, and creating reliable anchors. Mar 24, 2013 · So you bought a very basic, fully-adjustable harness to get you started in rock climbing, but it has no gear loops. Learn how to choose the correct climbing harness for the type of climbing you do, whether it's sport, trad, ice or alpine. Nov 6, 2024 · We tested and reviewed the best climbing harnesses for women, including top picks from Black Diamond, Petzl, Metolius, and more. It is specifically designed to handle the immense forces generated during a fall or when catching a falling partner. Having an attentive belayer to keep the rope up so you minimize fall factor as much as possible is also a good idea. Apr 4, 2025 · We tested 15 climbing harnesses from Petzl, Black Diamond, Blue Ice, and more to find the top options for all climbing styles. Aug 11, 2022 · A novice climber clipped into her gear loop rather than rappel/belay loop. Oct 18, 2023 · The belay loop is a critical component of a climbing harness, serving as the primary attachment point for the climber and their belay or rappel device. In technical terrain it's always better to have a belay loop, so those without one often simply use the inside of their knot. Five solid Jan 15, 2021 · Check Price and Reviews On Amazon The Petzl’s new Sitta harness is lightweight without sacrificing comfort. The belay loop is made of nylon webbing and is what you’ll use for belaying, rappelling, and attaching your climbing rope via a carabiner. It’s important to note that it can be difficult to release a device in guide mode once it has been weighted. The main problem with using this type of harness for technical rock-climbing lies in the way you attach your plate to them. Command Check: Jul 8, 2013 · Since I got good answers to my question about using ATC, I'll move on to my next. Aug 4, 2019 · If you do a google search for climbing harness and click on images you'll see a whole lot of new harnesses for sale by big name climbing gear companies with leg loops going to the belay loop. Adjustable Straps: Most harnesses feature adjustable straps on the waistbelt and leg loops for a customizable fit. The Trance, however, reflects the same attention to detail and innovation that made DMM’s other gear so sought-after. However, many sport or performance Sep 6, 2019 · It should also be noted that since this harness was specifically designed with competition in mind, the seamless belay loop will function great for speed climbing, allowing climbers to clip and go without a second thought. Jan 6, 2010 · The belay loop is one of the most important parts of a climbing harness (and also the strongest), so if the harness is not performing best for the type of climbing you are doing I recommend you buy another harness (that has a belay loop). Can you just belay using one of them? Or do you have to use both at the same time? Any other advantages/ disadvantages? A climbing harness is crucial for safety, offering support while you climb. Belay Device: Check the belay device to ensure it is correctly threaded with the rope. Two buckles allow you to centre the belay loop by adjusting the harness in different directions. (There are other designs of harnesses that have a slightly different 'belay loop' - but for the purpose of this article all Jul 13, 2024 · Overview of Belay Loop Design The belay loop is a crucial component in climbing harnesses, serving as the central point for attaching the climber to the rope system. But, just to know, on an harness like that, without the belay loop, you tie in the 2 tie point and i get it, but what if you want to belay the lead climber or attach something else to the harness?? you place robe and carabiner both in the 2 tie point? Jun 18, 2015 · The No Twist belay loop distinguishes most of CAMP’s harnesses from every other brand’s–it’s a simple, elegant, lightweight solution to the problem of having one’s belay ‘biner rotate and risk becoming cross-loaded. But have no fear: If you have four carabiners of any shape or gate type, plus a locking belay biner, you can make it to the ground. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. Clip the free locking carabiner to your belay loop. In addition, the harness has multiple gear loops At certain points in the broader activity of climbing, you have to secure yourself to an anchor without the use of the rope, and up until recently that meant using a 60 cm nylon sling girth-hitched to your harness. Apr 28, 2025 · If it pulls the belayer via the harness belay loop, you’re good to go. Doing this can prevent the loop from rotating and may concentrate wear in a single spot. Use it or loose it? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. It adds one one more possible failure point to the system (this used to be taught as a dangerous practice before convenience began to rule the marketing world of climbing equipment. Is it safe to tie a climbing rope to a carabiner for top-roping / lead climbing? Jan 7, 2015 · I have been using Edelrid's Loopo, without a belay-loop for two years now and last week I was amazed how much tiring it was to do a top rope session borrowing my wife's harness and further more, I actually felt like a worse lead belayer during some lead climbing. It allows the tie-in points to move freely and does not hinder the climber’s mobility. Putting the rope through the belay loop or the 2 points of the harness doesn’t really matter. You tie into the top + bottom front loops of your harness because it's the strongest connection to hold falls. Direct rope on webbing would definitely be a bad idea. If you have a horizontally oriented belay loop, make sure the rope is oriented so that the tail end is in your dominant hand. Moral of the story: Don’t leave any soft goods girth-hitched to the belay loop or tie-in points of your harness. When it hit the shelves, some climbers saw Rappelling without a typical belay device can be done in three ways: Just using one belay loop and a solitary rope rappel alongside your companion. Its design is engineered to withstand significant forces and provide a reliable connection between the Climbing harnesses feature one or two waistbelt buckles, which secure it above your hips. I like that the Big Gun Harness has a belay loop that nests inside the other. Jul 22, 2025 · Harnesses: Belay Loop. Do this double-check every single time either person is about to climb, meaning you might go through this process a few dozen times in one climbing session. Whether you're learning to belay in the gym or preparing to Because without the loop, you'd have to rely on the carabiner you're belaying from. Dec 15, 2024 · Belay Loop: This is the central loop where the rope attaches to the harness during belaying. Belay loop: This thick webbing loop is one of the strongest parts of your harness, with a strength rating of around 15kN. Lock the carabiner securely. [Also Read: Common Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them] The lanyard attached to the belay loop helps maintain good harness geometry without affecting comfort. But before learning about each method, let’s Harnesses with double belay loops. This loop, typically located at the front of the harness, plays a pivotal role in ensuring safety during climbing activities. These are great for traditional, alpine or winter climbers as they let you adjust the fit depending on your layering system. Always double check each other’s harnesses before climber leaves the ground or after tying in for glacier travel. Makes it a bit cleaner with a belay device moving around on the loop, but not really a safety thing. Harnesses without belay loops will require the use of a locking carabiner to attach the leg loops and the waist loop in the front. Jun 5, 2025 · A harness is an essential part of every climber’s kit, and we've identified the best climbing harnesses for every kind of climber. Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. It needs to be properly aligned and secured for safety. Some knots are best for securing ropes to harnesses, while others help in rappelling or belaying. Keeps the tie in point clean when not aiding. Nov 11, 2008 · In alpine climbing, a small percentage of climbers still use harnesses without belay loops. By just using one locking carabiner and also the climbing rope, a munter hitch is used. May 17, 2022 · Ever wonder what a haul loop is, if it's full strength, or how to use it? Read on to get informed and keep climbing safely. Jul 24, 2015 · In alpine climbing, a small percentage of climbers still use harnesses without belay loops. Aug 3, 2023 · What Does a Belay Loop Do? The belay loop on a harness provides a place for attaching a belay device and thereby the rope to the belayer. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. Connect your belay loop to the free locking carabiner. Belaying from the harness 'Belay Loop' Harnesses come with a 'belay loop'. It is one of those delightfully simple pieces of kit, that just works for the purposes it was designed Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. The waist band also has a no-seam technology, to help with the longevity of the harness. Mar 10, 2025 · Attach the rope and belay device to your harness. Look for adjustable leg loops and a waistbelt to ensure a perfect fit, which increases comfort and mobility. 9-ounce unisex M) with four gear loops as well as four ice-clipper slots, belay loop, haul loop, drop seat, and crampon-friendly leg loops. Verify that the carabiner is securely locked in place. Apr 24, 2020 · Harness loop or rope loop for Multi-pitch Trad/Sport Climbing Belayer/second: for the same reasons as above I would expect them to belay off the rope loop while on trad multi pitch routes. This allows a belayer to belay – we are responsible for controlling the amount of slack in the rope, holding our fellow climber’s weight, or providing a ‘catch’ in case of a fall. . Also, you can be sure that it is May 17, 2022 · Wondering how to choose a climbing harness that fits just right? Don't waste money on the wrong gear, learn how to choose the right harness. ), a backup ascender such as a Petzl Tibloc or Wild Country Ropeman, and a double-length sling to use as a foot loop for ascending the rope or unweighting the devices at your waist. The belay loop is the strongest part of the climbing harness, so why do so many climbers not trust it? It’s very common to see climbers backing up their belay loop with a separate piece of webbing or clipping their belay carabiner through the waist and leg tie-in points to avoid the belay loop. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. Apr 30, 2025 · Strong belay loop (for attaching a belay device with a carabiner). Aug 21, 2013 · You’re lying if you say you’ve never dropped your belay device and watched it go “tink, tink, tink” all the way down to the base of a route. Gear Loops: 2 Belay Loop: Yes Padded: No The NewDoar Climbing Harness is a budget-friendly option that provides the features and comfort required for a successful climbing adventure. These double-checks are vital for preventing mistakes. Later, you’ll need extra carabiners, cams, nuts, etc. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced climber, understanding these knots will improve your Mar 28, 2025 · The belay loop is a strong, reinforced part of the harness that connects your climbing rope to the harness. Types of belay devices: Your belay Dec 16, 2022 · A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. In most current models this belay loop connects the waist belt to the leg loops and is an extremely strong part of the harness. Apr 19, 2022 · We ran the Metolius Safe Tech climbing harness ragged — or tried to — from long, hot bolt clipping sessions to multipitch trad outings. Expect the widest padding, numerous gear loops (6+), often two belay loops for gear organization, adjustable leg loops, and a strength-rated haul loop. On the right, with a women's specific harness, there is a longer rise (and belay loop) and the harness sits comfortably on the hips without any downward tension. Material Durability The belay carabiner, which would normally be clipped through your belay loop, is clipped only through the loop of rope (two loops if using double ropes) on the inside of the device and not the belay loop. A modern climbing harness should consist of the following components, at a minimum: Waist belt Tie-in points * Belay loop * Buckles Jan 20, 2014 · To prepare for this, always carry some extra gear on your harness: an assisted-braking belay/rappel device (Grigri, Cinch, etc. Jun 15, 2012 · Just make sure to use a water knot with a good amount of tail to tie the webbing and use a carabiner to tie in. 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. We like to put things in a box and this really creates problems in both of these worlds. In addition, the Pinch Sep 17, 2024 · Belay Loop: Belay loops are the strongest loop on your harness, connecting the belt and the leg loop. “What is an infinity loop?” you ask. Apr 7, 2021 · The belay loop on a harness still has so many misunderstandings and misnomers about it in both climbing and rescue cultures. Gear Loops and Belay Loop: Most harnesses come equipped with multiple gear loops, allowing easy access to your equipment. Even if you’re just top roping at the gym, you need someplace on your harness to keep your belay device, tape and a chalk bag. This belay loop is for carabiner attachment while belaying, abseiling or connecting to anchors. Black Diamond Equipment is engineered for the mountains. Make sure the stitching is clean and robust, and that the loop moves freely without twisting. The belay loop is also the place where we connect ourselves to devices Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. May 10, 2025 · Discover the best climbing harnesses for beginners in 2025, ensuring safety, comfort, and confidence for your climbs. No visible stitching, means no stitches to rub loose when climbing. Depending on what the harness is designed for, leg loops can be adjustable with buckles, or fixed with elastic. Aug 21, 2013 · The double carabiner brake rappel is the best way to descend without a traditional rappel device. 2. Jun 29, 2016 · Harnesses generally come in two different styles when it comes to the belay loop. This harness is designed for the best performance in trad climbing with its 4 gear loops and 2 extra large organizing loops. Jun 30, 2022 · In this example, a woman is wearing a unisex harness on the left, and the shorter rise (and belay loop) pulls the waistbelt down uncomfortably. It is in good condition and seems strong, but it doesn’t have a belay loop, there is just the one main loop at the front and centre of the waistband. Well, it is a belay loop without the overlap which has been stitched together. May 15, 2024 · Here are some general guidelines and considerations: First, and perhaps most important, check your harness regularly and retire it without hesitation if it shows significant wear for any reason. It has four large gear loops, a rear haul loop, wear-indicators on the belay loop and tie-in points, adjustable leg loops, and is available in both men’s and women’s cuts. If you do connect a tether to your belay loop, don’t leave it tied there permanently. Learn how to choose a harness that fits well, feels great, and performs on route. Some manufacturers advise against tying into the belay loop, others do not specifically mention it but do recommend using the leg/waist loops. At Black Diamond, our mission is to make the best gear for climbing, skiing, running, hiking. May 1, 2025 · A sport climbing harness tends to be lightweight and streamlined; a trad climbing harness is usually sturdier with more gear loops; and a big wall harness tends to feature even more padding and include more features, like a second belay loop. This goes without saying! To avoid falling out of a climbing harness, you need the best one. Nov 2, 2024 · We tested harnesses from Yates, Black Diamond, Ocun and Metolius to figure out which ones will hold up best to the rigorous demands of big wall climbing Mar 15, 2016 · All harnesses used for rock climbing should be tested and designed specifically for that purpose. Sep 15, 2023 · Belay Loop: One feature that is found on most big wall specific harnesses is the addition of a second belay loop. Nov 4, 2013 · When you initially create the girth-hitch around your belay loop, cinch up both sides of the rope to snug everything into place. The climbing rope is threaded into the belay device and secured to the belay loop of the belayer’s harness with a carabiner. Both terms are correct. Setting up the Belay Device The belayer’s strand of rope is threaded through the belay device according to the manufacturer’s specifications and attached to the belayer’s belay loop on their harness using a locked carabiner. Mar 9, 2016 · This would have prevented the belay loop from rotating, and created a concentrated wear point. Jun 29, 2023 · Gear Loop Caveat The majority of fixed leg loop harnesses are designed with sport climbing in mind. Hook a locking carabiner through both the rope and the wire keeper, and attach it to the belay loop on your harness. Sep 10, 2015 · Leg loops: These padded fabric or webbing loops go around your upper thighs. Dec 8, 2009 · Hi All, I have always tied into the rope through the leg/waist loops of the climbing harness. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Is it safe to just tie to this, or should I be ditching it for a harness that has both? Grateful for any advice. For the latter, its buckles fully open (making your leg loop a flat panel of material) so you can don your harness without removing crampons or skis. Preferably with an ATC in guide mode. May 9, 2015 · This is a Black Diamond Bod Harness without the padding on the waist and no belay loop. With the pinch expanded Edelrid their product range includes a new mechanical safety device that works independently of the braking hand angle. Some people call these loops 'abseil loops'. This makes the Alpine Bod a lighter and faster drying climbing harness, two important factors in the mountains. It also offers reinforced belay points. Yet you belay and abseil from the belay loop. Apr 16, 2020 · When you're climbing, you tie your rope through your harness' 2 tie-in points, using a figure 8 knot. Feb 22, 2020 · Nowadays, many climbing gyms have incorporated a useful device to help individuals climb without a belay partner - the auto belay. What’s more, can you belay in a full-body harness? Read on for more! Yes, it is truly possible to belay in a full-body harness. Oct 27, 2006 · The belay loop was designed because of convenience and now someone is dead because it failed. mctk sosfmo xxozojrh szghok vbbyp rqdw qoiqwx tdvpih bygwn fgaect